What is it about Vogue?

IT’S NO secret that the fashion magazine market is struggling. As online platforms continue to grow, print titles are battling to keep up.

From blogs and social media sites such as Instagram, print publications are facing their biggest challenge to remain both relevant to consumers and profitable to their publishers.

Yet while several magazines have shut in the past 18 months, one publication is determined to buck the trend. Having launched in 1916, British Vogue has long been heralded as the fashion bible relied on by thousands for their monthly fix.

Brands and designers have come and gone but there has always been one constant within the industry: Vogue would be there, reassuring women of what was du jour.

For the first part of its distinguished history Vogue led the way for other women’s interests publications.

Showcasing the latest trends, on the best models, getting a Vogue cover was and remains the biggest kudos the fashion world can bestow.

From the 1970s the idea that only models could be on the cover of the magazine was rejected when they were replaced by famous faces.

Audrey Hepburn graced her first cover in 1971 and started a trend that continues in today’s celebrity obsessed culture.

Vogue remains the one publication that can entice the who’s who of society and the arts to its front page.

No one can escape the allure of the magazine’s cover, not even the Duchess of Cambridge who featured in 2016, following in the footsteps of Princess Diana and Princess Anne.

But what makes the Vogue cover so special? Why is it that no one can say no? Unsurprisingly it is the exclusivity of Vogue that remains its biggest draw.

Being asked says “you have made it”. The Vogue cover is the one every model, singer or actress yearns for.

It is recognition that you are of relevance and cultural importance to a publication that manages to remain aloof while still relatable.

Who doesn’t want to be in the “in” crowd? WHEN Alexandra Shulman announced that she was to leave as editor of British Vogue in January 2017 after more than 25 years, many feared for its future.

And despite the ensuing gossip about the main contenders for the most sought after position in British fashion, it appeared that Vogue magazine was about to move into a new era.

While Shulman came from a strong journalistic background, Conde Nast announced last year that the new editor-in-chief of British Vogue was to be Edward Enninful.

A fashion director from American based W magazine, he was everything that Alexandra wasn’t.

For starters Enninful was black and a man, the first to helm Vogue. He was born in Ghana but bred in London’s Ladbroke Grove and gained fashion experience as a model and stylist.

But while he hasn’t got the literary CV of Shulman, Enninful offered something she couldn’t: cult celebrity status. Shulman was often pictured in the front row during her tenure but made no secret that steering the magazine’s editorial direction was her strong point.

Enninful however offered the perfect combination of fashion forward thinking and paparazzi worthy lifestyle that newer consumers are looking for.

Pals with the likes of model Jourdan Dunn and singer Pharrell Williams, appointing Edward Enninful signalled a new direction for Vogue.

While celebrities have remained a constant on the covers, Enninful blurs the line between being an image maker and part of the story.

He represents the next generation of Vogue readers who are less brand loyal but are increasingly dedicated to celebrity status and narrative.

And while Enninful may feel just as at home in front of the flash bulbs as behind them, only a fool would underestimate fashion’s newest power player.

Enninful is by no means an unknown entity. Holding his first fashion directorship at the age of 22 he is a maverick with an impressive list of clients.

He is a major departure for Conde Nast which has often relied on candidates with strong journalism backgrounds for such prestigious roles.

But in a climate that’s growing ever more visual, where readers are more inclined to “like” a picture on Instagram than splash £4 on a magazine, they clearly were looking for an image-maker to re-engage with a new generation.

THE appointment of Enninful sent shockwaves through Vogue House and when he commenced his role last August, changes were swift.

Established fashion figures such as Lucinda Chambers – who had been with the magazine for 36 years – quickly left, making way for Enninful’s fashionable friends, with models Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell appointed to the masthead.

It really was the end of an era. Vogue as a publication had long been accused of elitism both on its covers and within its workplace.

During Shulman’s 25 years in the top job she featured only 12 black models/celebrities, controversially suggesting they didn’t sell, something Enninful vowed to change.

Promising greater diversity, Enninful has fulfilled his word. Featuring the likes of Oprah Winfrey and Adwoah Aboah on the cover of British Vogue within his first year, he is shaking things up and it is going down a storm.

Winning a legion of new fans, Enninful even signed limited edition hardback copies of his first issue, prompting queues around Vogue House and firmly establishing him as the most important man in British fashion.

This week sees his first September issue, regarded by many as the most important of the year, packed with the most fashion and usually containing the largest amount of advertising.

The honour of appearing on the cover was bestowed on singer, actress and businesswoman (and one of Enninful’s many celebrity friends) Rihanna.

Photographed by the respected Nick Knight and styled by Enninful himself, again it is something that Shulman never would have done.

Rihanna, who shared an image from the cover shoot on Instagram, wrote, “SEPTEMBER ISSUE!!! @britishvogue I’m so honored to be on the cover of your first September issue with British Vogue @edward_enninful Thank you for considering me!”

And that is the magic of British Vogue. You can be one of the biggest celebrities on the planet but recognition from one of the oldest fashion magazines remains priceless.